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Frozen In Time

Visit Mooie’s, the oldest bar on the island. Mr. Theovald E. “Mooie” Moorehead, opened this much loved island bar in 1956.  To think of St. John today without paying homage to Mr. Theovald and his many humanitarian contributions would be a great disservice.  To start, he was the first senator for St. John USVI and served for 16 years—8 consecutive terms.  He elevated the quality of life on St. John with the establishment of major much need institutions.  If it wasn’t for Mr. Moorehead there would be no St. John as we now know it.  Mr. Theovald was the key voice for the rights of native land owners when there was a proposal to “condemn” St. John and relocate all the natives for the purpose of creating an exclusive Island retreat for the privileged few.  He went to Washington and lobbied hard, and successfully to keep this from happening.  Mooie was instrumental in starting the inter-island transportation services, fire department, and public housing.  A true founding father and Island hero he is.  Although Mooie is no longer physically with us, his spirit lives on through Theodora “Theo,” his wonderful daughter who now operates the Mooie’s bar.

Back in the good old days the bar worked on the honor system. Mr. Theovald was unavailable to bar keep fulltime because of his busy schedule as the first senator. So customers would come in, pour their drink and faithfully leave the money in a box.  Theodora’s mother, Genevieve Hendricks Moorehead, tended the bar part-time until the business was able to afford to pay a bartender. On a hot midday in August, Rose, I and our son Jacob paid Theo a visit. We relaxed in her backyard-garden which is loaded with several varieties of exotic fruit-bearing trees (sugar apple, bananas, bread fruit, star fruit, etc.) and every islander’s favorite…the coconut.  Jacob looks forward to these spontaneous visits to Theo’s garden because he gets to feed her wild iguanas and drink coconut water from freshly picked coconuts.

We shared as always great conversation, a few laughs and fruit from her garden.  When Theo offers us a drink of coconut water we never refuse.  You can tell a true person of the Caribbean by the way they handle a machete.  For example, my mother can gut a coconut within seconds while holding a conversation.  Theo is no different.  In no time we were all cooled off by the thirst quenching water form freshly “shucked” red coconuts.  We drank our fill and Jacob got to feed the iguanas. The heat increased. We went inside the bar for some shade.  It was  dark and cool.  Mooie’s is a quaint, unassuming place with a welcoming charm.

Mooie’s was the first rum shop on St. John.  In the past rum shops were important institutions in many Caribbean islands.  They served as a convenient store and the local watering hole where people from all social and economic classes would informally (and formally) gather, socialize, network, exchange ideas and organize to get things done. Looking around the bar, and adjacent room (the walls are covered with murals depicting the simple days) I envision Mr. Moorehead spearheading meetings, and disseminating details of new developments and doing important work.   The door suddenly opened. We were blinded by the incoming sun light.  A gentleman said “good day” and casually walked over to the bar. He poured himself a stiff drink, left money on the bar, tipped

his hat and left.  I guess he was “grandfathered” into the honored system because Theo doesn’t do business this way today.

“Those sweet, simple days are gone, and not likely to return,” Theo said. She continued, “Do you see that tree out there?  Well if it could talk.”  She was referring to a tall and very old ginnup tree which still stands today.  She reflected back to when there were no cell phone—hell no phones—cars, computer, etc.; yet a simpler, peaceful time when people truly trusted and depended on each other.  This is what people search for when they come to St. John.  

If you want to get a glimpse of the past visit Mooie’s. It is the only authentic rum shop left on the island.  Mooie’s is housed in the charming pink colored building right across from the Cruz Bay ferry dock.  Today Mooie’s  caters to both locals and tourist.  There are no fancy martinis, however a great variety of every spirit can be had—gin, vodka, bourbon, whisky, tequila, brandy, cognac, and yes rum. Mooie’s has the locally made Cruzan rum in every flavor: coconut, vanilla, mango, raspberry, light, dark, over proof, and the top Cruzan single barrel sipping rum.  There are also venues and themed nights like karaoke, and live jazz.   Drinks are priced well under other establishments on Island and I bet much cheaper than places in your home town as well.

© 2009 Prince Adams

TROPICAL AMBIANCE / AUTHENTIC FLAVORS / COOL LIBATIONS
16118 little plantation, coral bay, st. john, usvi / tel: 340-777-4653 / em: roger372@hotmail.com